If the mains hook-up in your campervan or motorhome is not working, the fault could be outside the vehicle at the campsite bollard or domestic supply. It could also involve the hook-up cable, exterior inlet, RCD, circuit breaker, mains charger, internal wiring or an appliance connected inside the vehicle.
The first step is to identify exactly what has stopped working.
There is an important difference between:
- No 230V mains power anywhere in the vehicle
- 230V sockets working but the leisure battery not charging
- The battery charging but the mains sockets not working
- The RCD or circuit breaker tripping immediately
- The supply working until a particular appliance is switched on
Each symptom points towards a different part of the system.
At WeConvert, we provide campervan and motorhome electrical fault finding from our Blackburn workshop. We assess the external hook-up supply path, consumer unit, battery charger and affected circuits before recommending replacement parts or alterations.
Quick Mains Hook-Up Fault Guide
| Symptom | Possible causes |
|---|---|
| No mains power anywhere | Campsite supply off, bollard breaker tripped, damaged lead, faulty inlet, main switch off or RCD fault |
| Sockets work but battery does not charge | Charger switched off, charger fuse, failed mains charger, DC output fault or battery problem |
| Battery charges but sockets do not work | Socket-circuit breaker off, RCD issue, wiring fault or failed socket |
| RCD trips immediately | Earth leakage, water ingress, damaged lead, faulty appliance or installation fault |
| MCB trips when an appliance starts | Overload, appliance fault, short circuit or circuit problem |
| Campsite bollard keeps tripping | Total load too high, damaged lead, faulty vehicle installation or defective appliance |
| Power works until kettle or heater is used | Supply capacity exceeded or high-load appliance fault |
| Hook-up works at home but not on site | Site supply, bollard, polarity or available-amperage issue |
| Hook-up works on one site but not another | Site-specific supply problem, lower current limit or reversed polarity |
| Exterior inlet becomes hot | Loose connection, damaged plug, corrosion or poor terminal contact |
| Reverse-polarity warning appears | Site supply or adaptor wiring issue; disconnect and do not use until resolved |
| 12V equipment works but mains sockets are dead | Leisure battery is supplying the 12V system, but the 230V hook-up path has failed |
These are diagnostic starting points rather than confirmed conclusions. Because mains hook-up operates at nominal 230V, internal testing and repairs should be completed only by someone competent to work on the installation. The Wiring Regulations contain specific requirements for caravan and motor-caravan electrical installations.
How a Campervan Mains Hook-Up System Works
A typical campervan or motorhome mains hook-up system includes:
- A campsite or domestic electrical supply
- A hook-up cable
- An external vehicle inlet
- A mains consumer unit
- An RCD
- One or more miniature circuit breakers
- 230V sockets and appliances
- A mains leisure-battery charger
When connected correctly, the hook-up can supply equipment such as:
- 230V sockets
- Mains battery charger
- Fridge
- Water heater
- Space heater
- Microwave
- Television
- Induction hob, where the supply is sufficient
- Other approved mains appliances
The leisure battery and 12V circuits are connected to, but separate from, the 230V system.
This is why your lights and water pump may continue working even when the mains hook-up has failed. They may simply be running from the leisure battery.
Likewise, the 230V sockets may work while the battery remains uncharged if the separate battery charger has failed or been switched off.
First Establish What Is and Is Not Working
Before resetting anything, check:
- Are the 230V sockets working?
- Is the mains charger operating?
- Does the fridge work on mains?
- Does the control panel show a hook-up connection?
- Are the 12V lights still working?
- Has the campsite bollard breaker tripped?
- Has the vehicle RCD tripped?
- Has one individual circuit breaker tripped?
- Does the fault begin when a particular appliance is used?
- Is a reverse-polarity warning displayed?
This separates a complete supply failure from an individual charger, socket or appliance fault.
No sockets and no battery charging
The fault is likely to be somewhere in the main supply path:
- Campsite bollard
- Hook-up lead
- Exterior inlet
- Main isolator
- RCD
- Consumer unit
- Incoming mains wiring
Sockets work but the battery does not charge
The main hook-up is probably reaching the vehicle.
The fault is more likely to involve:
- Battery charger switched off
- Charger’s individual breaker
- Charger fuse
- Failed charger
- Charger-to-battery wiring
- Battery isolation
- Battery-management-system restriction
- Defective battery
Battery charges but sockets do not work
The incoming supply and charger may be working, but the socket circuit could have:
- A tripped breaker
- Loose wiring
- A failed socket
- A circuit fault
- An additional isolator that has been switched off
1. The Campsite Hook-Up Supply Is Off
The fault may be outside your campervan or motorhome.
Possible causes include:
- Campsite bollard switched off
- Bollard breaker tripped
- Site-wide power failure
- Pitch outlet fault
- Supply requiring activation by site staff
- Available amperage exceeded
- Another problem within the campsite installation
Check whether:
- The bollard switch or breaker is on
- Other pitches have power
- The site requires a key, card or payment
- Site staff are aware of an outage
- The supply works from another authorised pitch outlet
Do not open or dismantle a campsite bollard.
Ask site staff to inspect it. The campsite electrical equipment belongs to the site operator and should not be repaired or altered by a visitor.
2. The Campsite Supply Has Tripped Because of Overload
Campsite hook-ups do not all provide the same amount of power.
Common supply limits include:
- 6 amps
- 10 amps
- 16 amps
At approximately 230V, this provides a rough maximum of:
| Hook-up rating | Approximate maximum power |
|---|---|
| 6A | 1,380 watts |
| 10A | 2,300 watts |
| 16A | 3,680 watts |
The total includes everything drawing mains power at the same time.
For example, you may be operating:
- 2,000W electric heater
- 2,000W kettle
- Water heater
- Battery charger
- Fridge
- Microwave
Even if each appliance is operating correctly, the combined demand can exceed the pitch supply.
A 2kW heater alone uses more than half the capacity of a 16A hook-up and would exceed a 6A supply. Campsite guidance warns owners to consider the available amperage and total appliance load to avoid tripping the vehicle or bollard supply.
If the bollard trips only when several appliances are running:
- Switch off the high-load appliances.
- Reset the supply only where the site permits this.
- Reconnect equipment one item at a time.
- Avoid operating two high-power appliances simultaneously.
Repeatedly resetting an overloaded supply without reducing the load will not solve the problem.
3. The Hook-Up Cable Is Damaged
The hook-up cable is exposed to:
- Vehicle movement
- Weather
- Mud
- Water
- Foot traffic
- Campsite equipment
- Storage damage
- Repeated coiling
- Doors and lockers
Inspect the complete visible length for:
- Cuts
- Crushed sections
- Abrasion
- Split insulation
- Burn marks
- Bent pins
- Loose plugs
- Corrosion
- Water inside a connector
- Heat discolouration
- Previous taped repairs
Do not use a cable with exposed conductors, damaged plugs or evidence of overheating.
A damaged connection can cause short circuits, arcing or heat build-up.
The safest response is to replace a defective hook-up lead with a suitable purpose-made cable rather than carrying out an improvised repair.
4. The Hook-Up Cable Is Still Coiled
A cable carrying a significant current can generate heat.
When the cable remains tightly coiled, that heat cannot dissipate as effectively. This is particularly relevant when running high-power appliances such as heaters, kettles or water heaters.
Fully unroll the hook-up cable before connecting substantial loads.
The Camping and Caravanning Club recommends fully unwinding hook-up cables so that heat can dissipate safely.
Do not leave unnecessary loops beneath the vehicle where they can:
- Sit in standing water
- Become trapped under a wheel
- Create a trip hazard
- Be damaged by another vehicle
5. Several Hook-Up Cables Have Been Joined Together
Joining multiple hook-up leads introduces additional connectors into an outdoor environment.
Those connections may:
- Lie on wet ground
- Allow water ingress
- Become loose
- Be damaged by traffic
- Create additional resistance
- Be unsuitable for prolonged outdoor use
A single suitable-length cable should normally connect the vehicle directly to the pitch outlet.
The Caravan and Motorhome Club advises against daisy-chaining several leads, while the Camping and Caravanning Club recommends using a sufficiently long purpose-made cable to avoid extra joints.
Do not improvise with indoor extension leads, domestic multiway adaptors or connectors wrapped in plastic bags.
6. The Hook-Up Lead Is Not Fully Inserted
A plug may appear connected while its contacts are not fully engaged.
Check that:
- The vehicle connector is fully inserted
- Any locking collar is secure
- The campsite plug is properly seated
- The connector is not being pulled sideways
- The cable is not supporting its own weight at the inlet
- Pins are straight and undamaged
If a connector feels loose or becomes warm, disconnect the supply and stop using it.
A loose contact can create resistance and heat even where the electrical equipment still appears to work.
7. The Vehicle’s Exterior Hook-Up Inlet Is Damaged
The external inlet can develop faults through:
- Water ingress
- Loose terminals
- Corrosion
- Impact damage
- Repeated plug movement
- Cracked housing
- Failed seals
- Heat damage
- Poor installation
Possible signs include:
- Intermittent power
- Power changing when the plug moves
- Burning smell
- Warm or discoloured inlet
- Visible corrosion
- RCD tripping in wet weather
- Water marks inside the adjacent cupboard
- Loose inlet body
Do not remove the inlet cover or attempt to tighten internal mains terminals while the vehicle is connected.
Disconnect the hook-up at the supply and arrange inspection.
8. Water Has Entered the Hook-Up Inlet or Electrical System
Water ingress can cause:
- Earth leakage
- RCD tripping
- Corrosion
- Short circuits
- Intermittent faults
- Damaged connectors
- Heat at poor connections
Water may enter through:
- Damaged hook-up inlet
- Failed inlet seal
- Rooflight leak
- Window leak
- Solar cable gland
- External socket
- Service hatch
- Body seam
A fault that appears only during heavy rain or after washing the vehicle should be treated seriously.
Do not repeatedly reset the RCD while electrical components remain damp.
The source of the water must be found and any affected equipment inspected before being returned to service.
WeConvert can assess selected electrical and water-ingress problems through our campervan and motorhome repairs service in Blackburn.
9. The Vehicle RCD Has Tripped
An RCD monitors whether the current returning through the circuit differs from the current leaving it.
A significant imbalance can indicate that current is escaping through an unintended path, potentially to earth. The RCD then disconnects the supply.
Possible causes include:
- Faulty appliance
- Water ingress
- Damaged cable
- Defective hook-up lead
- Wiring fault
- Damaged exterior inlet
- Moisture inside a socket
- Failed charger
- Faulty water heater
- Accumulated leakage from several appliances
The RCD is a safety device. It should not be wedged on, bypassed or repeatedly reset without investigation.
What you can check safely
Without removing electrical covers:
- Switch off and unplug portable mains appliances.
- Turn off fixed appliances using their normal controls.
- Disconnect the hook-up.
- Inspect the lead and plugs for visible damage.
- Reconnect following the correct procedure.
- Attempt to reset the RCD once.
- Restore individual appliances one at a time.
If the RCD trips with everything switched off, stop testing and arrange professional inspection.
10. The RCD Will Not Reset
An RCD may refuse to reset because:
- The incoming supply is absent
- A fault remains connected
- An individual circuit breaker is still on
- The RCD mechanism has failed
- There is moisture in the system
- The hook-up cable or inlet is defective
- The consumer unit has an internal fault
Some RCDs require the operating lever to be moved fully to the off position before they can be reset.
Do not force the mechanism.
If it will not remain on after appliances have been disconnected, the installation should be inspected.
11. The RCD Test Button Does Not Work
The test button checks the operation of the RCD mechanism when the system is energised.
When connecting to a campsite supply, accepted guidance is to connect with the vehicle RCD off, connect the vehicle end first, then the bollard end, switch on and use the test button. If the device does not trip when tested, the installation should be checked by a suitably competent person.
Do not rely on an RCD that fails its test.
Disconnect the mains hook-up and arrange inspection before using the 230V system again.
12. An Individual Circuit Breaker Has Tripped
The consumer unit may contain separate miniature circuit breakers for:
- 230V sockets
- Battery charger
- Water heater
- Space heater
- Fridge
- Other fixed equipment
If only one circuit has stopped working, check whether its breaker has moved to the off or tripped position.
A breaker may trip because of:
- Overload
- Short circuit
- Faulty appliance
- Damaged wiring
- Water ingress
- Loose connection
- Circuit-breaker fault
Reset it once after switching off the connected appliances.
If it trips again, do not continue resetting it.
The affected circuit needs diagnosis.
13. One Appliance Is Causing the RCD to Trip
A common pattern is:
- Hook-up connects normally.
- RCD remains on.
- A particular appliance is switched on.
- The RCD trips.
Possible causes include:
- Moisture inside the appliance
- Failed heating element
- Damaged mains cable
- Insulation fault
- Internal earth leakage
- Defective charger
- Faulty fridge heating element
- Water-heater problem
- Damaged portable appliance
Common suspects include:
- Kettle
- Toaster
- Electric heater
- Water heater
- Fridge
- Microwave
- Battery charger
- Extension lead
- Outdoor appliance
Unplug portable equipment and isolate fixed appliances using their normal switches.
If the supply remains stable until one item is operated, stop using that item and have it tested.
14. A High-Power Appliance Is Tripping the MCB
An MCB generally responds to excessive current rather than earth leakage.
If the circuit breaker trips when operating several high-load appliances, the likely problem may be overload rather than an electrical leak.
Typical high-power equipment includes:
- Fan heater
- Kettle
- Hairdryer
- Microwave
- Induction hob
- Electric water heater
- Coffee machine
- Toaster
Reduce the number of appliances operating simultaneously.
If a breaker trips when only one suitable appliance is connected, the appliance or circuit may be faulty.
15. The Battery Charger Is Switched Off
If the sockets work but the leisure battery is not charging, check whether the mains battery charger has:
- A separate switch
- Its own circuit breaker
- An inline DC fuse
- A control-panel setting
- A removable mains plug
- A remote enable connection
Some motorhomes allow the charger to be switched off independently while the sockets continue operating.
Consult the charger or vehicle instructions before changing settings.
16. The Mains Battery Charger Has Failed
A charger can receive 230V but produce no usable DC output.
Possible symptoms include:
- Mains sockets work normally
- Hook-up indicator is illuminated
- Leisure-battery voltage does not rise
- Charger fan does not run
- Charger warning light is displayed
- Battery continues to discharge while connected
- Charger becomes unusually hot
- Burning smell
- Charger repeatedly trips the RCD or breaker
The fault may involve:
- Charger itself
- AC supply to the charger
- DC fuse
- Battery cable
- Battery isolator
- Incorrect charging settings
- Lithium battery BMS
- Failed battery
Do not assume the charger has failed until its input, output and battery connections have been tested.
Read Why Is My Campervan Leisure Battery Not Charging? for a wider guide covering solar, alternator and mains charging.
17. The Charger Works but the Battery Still Goes Flat
The mains charger may be operating while the battery remains unable to retain energy.
Possible causes include:
- Ageing battery
- Damaged battery
- Insufficient charger output
- Incorrect charging profile
- Excessive 12V loads
- Battery not connected properly
- Lithium BMS restriction
- Charge voltage reaching the battery incorrectly
- Battery monitor displaying inaccurate information
A worn battery can reach charging voltage quickly while storing very little usable energy.
The battery should be tested under load rather than judged only from its resting voltage.
18. The Charger Is Incompatible With a Lithium Battery
A lithium upgrade may require changes to:
- Mains charger
- Solar controller
- DC-to-DC charger
- Battery monitor
- Cable protection
- Charging settings
An older motorhome charger may not have a charging profile suitable for the new battery.
Possible symptoms include:
- Battery never reaches full charge
- Charger stops prematurely
- BMS disconnects
- Charger reports a fault
- Battery enters protection mode
- Charging voltage is unsuitable
- Charger becomes unstable
Do not select charging settings by guesswork.
The battery manufacturer’s requirements should be compared with the charger’s supported profiles and output.
19. The 230V Sockets Work Only When Hooked Up
This is normally correct unless the vehicle has a properly installed inverter system designed to supply those sockets.
Standard mains sockets do not operate from the leisure battery simply because the battery is charged.
An inverter converts battery power into 230V, but the way it supplies sockets must be properly designed. The Camping and Caravanning Club cautions against feeding an inverter into a motorhome’s mains socket system through the hook-up cable or an improvised connection.
Never connect an inverter to the vehicle’s external hook-up inlet to energise the internal sockets.
That can create serious risks involving backfeeding, earthing, changeover arrangements and RCD operation.
20. A Reverse-Polarity Warning Is Showing
Reverse polarity means the live and neutral conductors are not arranged as expected.
This may occur at:
- Campsite supply
- Adapter
- Hook-up lead
- Imported installation
- Modified wiring
If a reverse-polarity warning appears:
- Switch off the vehicle’s mains supply.
- Disconnect the hook-up.
- Inform the site operator.
- Try another authorised connection point only if advised.
- Do not continue using the supply until the condition is resolved.
The Caravan and Motorhome Club advises that a leisure vehicle’s mains installation should not be used while reversed polarity exists because electrical safety may be compromised.
Do not make or alter a polarity-reversing lead unless you are competent to understand the complete installation and local supply arrangements.
21. The Hook-Up Works at Home but Not on a Campsite
Possible reasons include:
- Campsite bollard off
- Lower campsite current limit
- Site breaker tripped
- Pitch outlet fault
- Reverse polarity
- Different earthing arrangement
- A fault that appears only with the site’s protection devices
- High appliance demand
The fact that it operates from one supply does not prove that the campervan installation is fault-free.
A vehicle fault may trip one RCD or breaker more readily than another.
22. The Hook-Up Works on Some Campsites but Not Others
Different sites can have:
- Different supply ratings
- Different protection devices
- Different installation ages
- Different polarity arrangements
- Different voltage conditions
- Different connection procedures
Record:
- Supply rating
- What tripped
- Which appliance was operating
- Whether reverse polarity was indicated
- Whether another pitch worked
- Whether the same fault occurs at home
This information can help distinguish a site-supply problem from a vehicle fault.
23. The Exterior Plug or Inlet Becomes Hot
A warm or hot connection can indicate excessive resistance.
Possible causes include:
- Loose terminal
- Corroded pin
- Worn plug
- Damaged inlet
- Poor contact pressure
- Cable damage
- Excessive current
- Heat-damaged connector
Disconnect immediately if:
- The plug is painful to touch
- Plastic is discoloured
- There is a burning smell
- The connector has softened or melted
- Crackling or arcing is heard
Do not continue using it simply because the power remains on.
Heat at a connection can damage the inlet, cable and surrounding vehicle structure.
24. Recent Conversion Work Has Damaged the Mains Wiring
Hook-up faults can begin after:
- Furniture installation
- Floor replacement
- Window fitting
- Rooflight work
- Pop-top installation
- Battery upgrade
- Charger replacement
- Solar installation
- Plumbing work
- Adding sockets
- Installing an inverter
Possible damage includes:
- Screw through a cable
- Cable crushed behind furniture
- Loose terminal
- Incorrectly reconnected consumer unit
- Water pipe leaking onto electrical equipment
- Earth bonding disturbed
- Socket connection pulled apart
Tell the person diagnosing the fault what was altered and when the problem began.
What Can You Safely Check Yourself?
Without opening mains equipment, you can normally check:
- Whether the campsite supply is on
- Whether other pitches have power
- Available hook-up rating
- Visible condition of the hook-up lead
- Whether the cable is fully uncoiled
- Whether plugs are fully inserted
- Whether the vehicle RCD has tripped
- Whether an individual breaker has tripped
- Whether the RCD test button operates
- Whether one appliance triggers the fault
- Whether sockets work
- Whether the battery charger is switched on
- Whether the battery voltage rises on hook-up
- Whether reverse polarity is displayed
- Whether the exterior inlet is warm or damaged
- Whether water ingress is visible
Record photographs of:
- Consumer-unit switch positions
- Hook-up lead and plugs
- Vehicle inlet
- Charger warning lights
- Control-panel messages
- Any heat or water damage
Do not remove the consumer-unit cover, socket fronts, charger casing or external inlet while attempting owner checks.
Safe Hook-Up Connection Procedure
Follow the instructions supplied with your campervan, motorhome and campsite.
A typical safe procedure is:
- Switch off high-load appliances.
- Set the vehicle’s mains RCD or main switch to off.
- Fully uncoil the hook-up cable.
- Connect the cable to the vehicle first.
- Connect the other end to the campsite bollard.
- Switch on the bollard where required.
- Switch on the vehicle RCD.
- Press the RCD test button.
- Reset the RCD after a successful test.
- Switch on individual appliances gradually.
When disconnecting, reverse the process and remove the campsite end first.
The Camping and Caravanning Club recommends connecting the vehicle end before the campsite outlet and testing the RCD before using appliances.
When Should You Stop Using the Hook-Up?
Disconnect the supply and arrange an inspection if:
- An RCD will not reset
- The RCD test button does not work
- A breaker repeatedly trips
- The campsite supply repeatedly trips
- Reverse polarity is indicated
- A plug or inlet becomes hot
- There is a burning smell
- Plastic is melting or discoloured
- Water has entered electrical equipment
- Exposed wiring is visible
- The hook-up lead is damaged
- A socket crackles or sparks
- The vehicle body gives a tingling sensation
- An appliance repeatedly causes a trip
- The installation has been modified without proper testing
Do not continue using an electrical installation because the fault appears intermittent.
How We Diagnose Mains Hook-Up Faults
At our Blackburn workshop, an agreed initial assessment may include:
- Establishing whether the fault affects the entire 230V installation
- Inspecting the hook-up lead and exterior inlet
- Checking the consumer-unit switch positions
- Identifying whether the RCD or an MCB is operating
- Separating charger faults from socket-circuit faults
- Checking for visible heat or water damage
- Identifying which appliance triggers the problem
- Assessing the charger and leisure-battery behaviour
- Reviewing recent alterations
- Advising whether further testing, repair or specialist referral is required
Because 230V electrical work carries greater risk than normal 12V fault finding, work requiring formal inspection, testing or certification must be completed by a suitably competent person.
We will not advise repeatedly resetting safety devices or replacing components before the underlying fault is understood.
Campervan and Motorhome Hook-Up Fault Finding in Blackburn
WeConvert provides campervan and motorhome electrical fault assessment from our Blackburn workshop.
We can investigate suitable faults involving:
- Electric hook-up leads
- Exterior hook-up inlets
- Consumer-unit operation
- RCD and breaker tripping
- 230V socket faults
- Mains battery chargers
- Leisure batteries not charging on hook-up
- Water ingress around exterior electrical fittings
- Electrical faults following conversion work
- Campervan and motorhome habitation systems
Our Blackburn workshop serves customers travelling from:
- Blackburn
- Darwen
- Accrington
- Burnley
- Rossendale
- Bolton
- Chorley
- Preston
- Wider Lancashire
For faults affecting the complete habitation system, read Campervan or Motorhome 12V Electrics Not Working?.
For solar-related charging faults, visit Campervan or Motorhome Solar Panel Not Charging the Battery?.
You can also learn more about our campervan electrical and solar services in Blackburn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is there no mains power in my motorhome?
Possible causes include:
- Campsite supply switched off
- Bollard breaker tripped
- Damaged hook-up lead
- Faulty exterior inlet
- Vehicle RCD switched off
- Circuit breaker tripped
- Internal wiring fault
Check the external supply and visible safety switches before arranging further diagnosis.
Why do the sockets work but the battery does not charge?
The mains supply is probably entering the vehicle, but the separate battery charger may be switched off, incorrectly fused, disconnected or faulty.
The battery itself may also be unable to accept or retain charge.
Why does the battery charge but the sockets do not work?
The charger circuit may be operating while the socket circuit breaker is off or the socket wiring has a fault.
Why does my motorhome RCD keep tripping?
An RCD can trip because of earth leakage from:
- Faulty appliance
- Water ingress
- Damaged hook-up lead
- Charger fault
- Wiring problem
- Exterior inlet damage
Unplug portable appliances and stop using any item that repeatedly triggers the fault.
Why does the campsite bollard trip when I use the kettle?
The combined appliance demand may exceed the pitch supply.
A kettle, heater and water heater can quickly overload a 6A or 10A hook-up.
Can I use a household extension lead for my campervan?
Use a purpose-made outdoor leisure-vehicle hook-up cable with suitable connectors and protection.
Domestic extension leads are not a proper replacement for an external campervan hook-up lead.
Should the hook-up cable be fully unwound?
Yes, particularly when operating high-power appliances.
This allows heat generated in the cable to dissipate more effectively.
What does reverse polarity mean in a motorhome?
It means live and neutral are not arranged as expected.
Disconnect the supply and do not use it until the site operator or a competent person has resolved the issue.
Can I reset the RCD myself?
You can normally operate the external RCD controls and use its test button.
Do not remove the consumer-unit cover or bypass the RCD. If it repeatedly trips or fails its test, disconnect the supply and arrange inspection.
Can WeConvert inspect a hook-up system installed by another converter?
Yes, subject to the installation’s condition and the work required.
We can carry out an initial assessment at our Blackburn workshop and explain whether the issue can be resolved in-house or needs specialist electrical testing.
Book Mains Hook-Up Fault Finding in Blackburn
If the mains hook-up in your campervan or motorhome is not working, send us:
- Vehicle make, model and year
- Type of conversion
- Description of what is not working
- Whether 12V equipment still works
- Whether sockets work
- Whether the leisure battery charges
- Whether the RCD or an MCB trips
- Whether the campsite bollard trips
- Which appliance triggers the fault
- Photographs of the consumer unit
- Photograph of the hook-up inlet and lead
- Any warning lights or error messages
- Your postcode
We can then advise whether to book the vehicle into our Blackburn workshop for electrical fault assessment.
Contact WeConvert to request campervan or motorhome mains hook-up fault finding in Blackburn.