A Campervan Guide to Vehicle Weight (UK)

Converting a campervan is exciting, but weight is one of the easiest things to get wrong. Understanding your van’s limits helps you stay safe, legal, and prevents issues once the build is finished. This guide covers the key campervan weight terms and practical tips to keep your conversion within limits.

Why Campervan Weight Matters

Safety

• Handling and braking: Overloading can reduce braking performance and make the van unstable in corners and crosswinds.
• Wear and tear: Excess weight puts extra strain on tyres, suspension, brakes, and drivetrain components.

Legal compliance (UK)

• Maximum legal weight: Every van has a maximum permitted weight (GVWR / MAM). Exceeding it can result in fines and being required to offload weight.
• Driving licence: A standard UK Category B licence generally covers vehicles up to 3,500kg MAM. Above that usually requires Category C1.

Performance

• Fuel economy: More weight typically means higher fuel consumption.
• Engine strain: Heavier builds can feel sluggish, especially on hills and when fully loaded for trips.

Key Campervan Weight Terminology

GVWR / MAM (Maximum Authorised Mass): The maximum allowable total weight of the vehicle when fully loaded — van, passengers, fuel, water, conversion items, and luggage. (Also called “Max Laden Weight”.)

Kerb Weight: The weight of the vehicle with a full tank of fuel and standard fluids. Note: kerb weight is based on the base vehicle. After conversion, your real “empty” weight will be higher because furniture and equipment are now fitted.

Payload: The amount of weight you can add. It’s calculated as:

Payload = GVWR (MAM) − Kerb Weight

Vehicle Weight Plate: A plate (or sticker) on the van that lists key weights (including MAM/GVWR). It’s often found under the bonnet or inside the driver/passenger door area.

Weight Considerations When Planning a Conversion

1) Plan the layout with weight in mind

Before you start cutting materials, list the major components and estimate their weights. Heavy items often include water tanks, batteries, fridges, heaters, and cabinetry. A simple “weight tracker” spreadsheet is an easy way to stay on top of the build.

2) Choose lightweight materials where possible

Furniture is a big part of overall conversion weight. Where appropriate, consider lightweight plywood or furniture board rather than solid timber, and avoid overbuilding. Well-designed cabinetry can be strong without being unnecessarily heavy.

If you’re planning modular cabinetry, our campervan furniture kits are designed with real-world campervan usability in mind — including practical layout and installation considerations.

3) Think about weight distribution

• Try to distribute weight evenly across the van.
• Place heavier items low down and ideally close to/over the axles to help stability.
• Avoid loading one side significantly more than the other where possible.

How to Weigh Your Campervan

A simple and reliable approach is to weigh the van:

• Before the conversion (base vehicle weight)
• After the conversion (completed build)
• Fully loaded for travel (people, luggage, food, full fuel/water)

To weigh your van, visit a public weighbridge (often found at recycling centres, scrap yards, and some commercial sites). You drive onto the scales and request a weighbridge ticket/printout. Pricing varies, but it’s commonly a paid service and typically not expensive.

Practical Notes

• Check manufacturer specifications: Always confirm the correct weights for your exact make/model/variant.
• Travelling abroad: If you plan to travel into other countries, be aware that local regulations and enforcement may differ.
• Water weight: As a simple rule of thumb, 1 litre of water ≈ 1kg. Full tanks add weight quickly.

Summary

Getting weight right keeps your campervan safe, legal, and enjoyable to drive. Plan your layout, track the heavier components, use sensible materials, and confirm your final weight with a weighbridge ticket — especially before long trips.